Place5′
Mom's meals at the Apollon Taverna
Timeless flavors from a more innocent era in the small village of Apollonas on Naxos
The tavern's menu looks like it came straight out of a time capsule.
16 September 2026
Timeless flavors from a more innocent era in the small village of Apollonas on Naxos
The tavern's menu looks like it came straight out of a time capsule.
It is very rare for small villages to become the subject of songs; especially songs that are internationally recognized. The case of Apollonas on Naxos and the song of the same name by the Konitopoulos family is not one of them, unlike “Eriskay Love Lilt,” which refers to the tiny Scottish island of Eriskay, or “Kilkelly, Ireland,” which is about Kilkelly, a small village in western Ireland. I never expected to find myself in this small village on Naxos, but the need for a peaceful and uncomplicated place is a frequent one. So during my week-long stay at Apollonas, I decided to eat at the local tavern that bears the same name as the village. At the Apollon tavern, I felt a sense of belonging and also savored timeless, mom-style dishes.
At one of the most beautiful spots on the beachfront of Apollonas, at the Apollon tavern, you can sit right by the sea and choose from a menu featuring the absolute essentials of a Greek summer. Every afternoon that week in August, I was there, usually after a swim. Except for the first day, when I was still getting to know the staff, they always greeted me and welcomed me to this place as if they’d been waiting for me. From the kitchen to the service, it’s a family-run business that strives to honor traditional mom-style recipes while maintaining a high standard of quality. After all, it’s one of only a handful of businesses in this village, a fact that leaves no room for mediocrity.
At the tables of the Apollon tavern, there should be only one goal: to get the paper tablecloths as dirty as possible with food stains.
The menu, which is also the first photo in this article, is stuck in the past, in a Greece that still serves gyros at tavernas. Moussaka and pastitsio are still on the menu, but there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that. Unlike many places that have remained stuck in a snapshot of the past, this taverna hasn’t lost its dedication to flavor and genuine hospitality. As I always say, the best Greek salad isn’t the choriatiki (χωριάτικη) or village salad but the vrasta chorta (βραστά χόρτα) or boiled greens. And to see if such taverna is worth it, you start with the greens.
I don't know who could tell just by looking what kind of greens we're talking about, but I promise I’ll be back with an ode to greens and the different varieties that grow and are eaten in Greece. At the Apollon taverna, they serve a very generous and fresh portion with just the right amount of olive oil. As is customary, you’re invited to add salt and lemon. If you ask me, add as much lemon as suits your taste. I'd ordered these greens almost every day alongside two main dishes I ate twice or thrice each.
A taverna-style bifteki (μπιφτέκι), or patty, when prepared with care by a skilled cook, is perhaps one of the best dishes you’ll ever find in Greek cuisine. The garnish here was a nice, juicy tomato, while the dish consisted of classic fresh fries and two hearty burgers made from beef mince. Elsewhere, you might find the burger served with rice or rice and roasted potatoes, but if the potatoes are fresh and fried in good oil, the result is amazing.
I don’t remember exactly how many times I ate this bifteki dish that week, but I know I still remember them.
One of the recipes that holds a very special place in my heart is spaghetti with ground beef. This cousin of pasta al ragù from Greece—with its meaty sauce made from ground beef and crushed tomatoes, often with cinnamon or herbs—is a dish that reminds me of Mondays. It was the dish that kicked off the week at my house, and I always looked forward to it; it’s a dish for all seasons that feels a bit like a warm embrace. At the Apollon tavern, it came with grated graviera (γραβιέρα), while I also paired it with a slice of feta drizzled with olive oil and oregano; because you can’t eat spaghetti with ground beef without a little feta on the side. It reminded me of my mother’s recipe, but for diplomatic reasons, I won’t say whether Apollon’s recipe was better.
Maybe it’ll become clearer the more I write about bifteki and keftedakia, but late at night, when others are dreaming of sweets and chocolate, I’m still thinking about bifteki and keftedakia. That said, if I find myself at a tavern that has a dessert that catches my eye, I won’t say no. I’d asked right from the very first day what desserts they had at the tavern, but at the same time, I’d already seen the baklava being served at various tables. Eventually, one day, I gave in too. That day I was lucky because the baklava pan had just come out of the oven. The top layers were still crispy, while the middle layers melted in my mouth with a fork, and the syrup was just sweet enough without being cloying. I couldn’t resist getting baklava again on another day, and that second time it was a bit cooler.
No matter the temperature, this baklava is a truly authentic recipe that you simply must try.
If you ever find yourself in Naxos and are looking for a quiet village and a fantastic beach, Apollonas is an unexpectedly great choice for relaxation. I hope, just like me, that you’ll visit the Apollon taverna often and make it your goal to try everything on the menu. And if you like baklava, you can keep an eye out while you’re at the tavern or between dips in the sea to see when the baking tray comes out of the oven.
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Naxos, Greece
Apollonas 843 01, Greece
An authentic family-run taverna right on Apollon Beach in Naxos.
