Coffee first and foremost

I think there’s been a lot of talk about coffee in Japan in recent years, and I can totally understand why. If there’s something from the things I'm writing that I'm the least well-versed in it’s coffee, and I’m incredibly grateful for all the places that allow me to learn more and leave a little richer in flavors and experiences. And our eagerness to see what this country has to offer through the beans they select was entirely justified.

From our very first morning in Tokyo, we started looking for a place to have coffee near the hotel. Some of the more impatient members of our group had already headed off to another coffee shop that you’ll find in this post, but let’s start from the beginning. We all ended up meeting at Blue Bottle Coffee in Toyosu Park, a place that’s beyond words. It’s housed in a beautiful wooden structure designed to put you at ease before you’ve even taken a sip of your first coffee of the day. But our friend GF, a true coffee enthusiast, made sure to put together an impressive list for our tastings.

Japan is yet another country with excellent cold coffee options, especially when the outside temperature calls for it. So I began this journey with a single-origin cold brew, the perfect choice for such a hot day. While we waited for our coffees, we simply watched the staff work like a well-oiled machine; an added touch to the overall atmosphere that made the place even more relaxing. Along with the coffee, we tried a simple but very tasty cheese toast, and the coffee itself was a very promising sign of things to come.

In one of Tokyo’s iconic alleys, lined with buildings that have been depicted countless times in anime series down to the smallest detail, we found Nomad Coffee, one of the cutest coffee shops we saw during our roughly three weeks in the country. Inside, we found an aesthetic completely different from that which dominated the cafés we’d visited, as minimalism gave way to every little touch that adorned the café. I’m absolutely certain we didn’t catch every detail the space had to offer, and on a second visit, our eyes would surely fall on other things as well. From the plush Pikachu atop the Skytree Tower—which was in the area—to stickers, guitars, and tabletop decorations, the café had a very lively atmosphere and seemed to be getting more and more decorations all the time.

Our group was complete here, and we tried, among other things, an iced Americano, a flat white, and a double espresso; all of which were delicious and light, I’d say. I believe coffee should be enjoyable and leave you with the right aftertaste, without upsetting your stomach. The extremely courteous staff prepared our coffees with great enthusiasm, and when one of the coffees was ready, they placed it on the shell of a toy turtle, which, acting as an interactive coaster, raised its legs.

For breakfast before leaving for Kyoto, we decided to spend some time sampling coffees at GF’s already favorite spot—a place he’d, of course, already visited on our very first day in the country. I’d heard so much about this café, and I have to admit it was exactly as I’d been told. We went fairly early to avoid the line, which, depending on the crowd, theoretically fluctuated, and we managed to do so. I guess I’m just lucky when it comes to crowds at places like this. Long story short, Glitch in Ginza is one of the most aristocratic cafés you can find in Tokyo. Probably in the world.

An exceptional interior designed exclusively to bring this concept to life, featured in the first image of this story. In the center, you’ll find a counter designed to hold all kinds of coffee as well as the equipment used to brew it. The counter is flanked by an ornate shelving unit that houses the large speakers, and a little further over are the coffee roasting machines. At this café, you’ll find exclusively hand-brewed coffee—known as pour-over or hand drip in Japan—and we decided to do a coffee tasting to sample different blends.

A change of city, and back to the cold brews I love so much; especially when it’s hot. At Kurasu in Kyoto, we once again found a counter in the middle of the shop, but this time there was also more space for tables and chairs. It’s one of their many cafés in Kyoto, which first opened during the COVID era and serves coffee made with equipment you can actually have at home. It would be really nice to have a little corner like this with this kind of aesthetic in my own home, but for now I’ll settle for the little coffee station I’ve set up.

Here you can also find coffee-making equipment, which I strategically avoided because otherwise I’d have had to buy a third suitcase for my trip home. Anyway, once again, the group stayed together at this café, so I tried not only the cold brew but also other coffees like lattes and espressos. I can say that, aside from the great atmosphere you’ll find here, the coffee is also really delicious.

We never had the same day while we were in Japan, but one cup of coffee was never enough. Sometime in the afternoon, it was always time for a second cup of coffee, which felt more like a ritual than a necessity, unlike the morning coffee. At one of Kyoto’s most industrial-style cafés, “here,” I had one of the most delightful servings of french toast with ice cream.

That day was strange; it started out sunny, then it started raining, and the rain actually lasted for a while, so to stay dry we went from one indoor spot to the next. That’s how we found “here,” where I had that Americano you drink when it’s a little chilly outside and you want to warm up, but the weather changes so quickly that it ended up being way too hot. So, as we were enjoying our coffee at this place—which really had a lot of space for a café in Japan—the sun came out again and called us to continue our stroll. The cutest merch I've ever seen in a café must have been in “here.” Even though I was naturally biased because of its anime aesthetic.

Continuing our favorite midday tradition, before visiting yet another temple in Kyoto, we stopped by M Stand. The building stood out quite a bit from the rest of the neighborhood; it was completely white and appeared like an oasis before us in the heat of the day. At this branch of the Shanghai-based chain, we found refuge and air conditioning, as well as some very tasty coffees. An Americano and a latte. Our choices were iced coffees once again, and this time, just like at Glitch, the coffee had a strong peach flavor. The more I try different coffees, the more I realize that the blends I like best are the ones with fruity and sweet flavors.

I saved the café we found on our day trip to Kamakura for last, before we returned to Tokyo from Kyoto. Very close to Zaimokuza Beach is the kind of café you look for when you want to read a good book or simply lose yourself in your thoughts. At Mill Coffee & Stand, we had an amazing cheesecake and drank some good coffee before heading to the Kamakura train station. The place might not be what you’d expect given how close it is to the sea, but then again, maybe I’m just thinking that way because of similar cafés in other coastal areas.

The nicest thing I remember was how happy the shy owner—who ran the café and also baked the pastries—was when I told her how delicious the cheesecake was. It’s always very important to me to say what I think, especially when I have the chance to make someone smile. We didn’t stay long, nor did we have a book with us to read, but it was definitely one of the coziest coffee spots we came across during those three weeks.

I’m setting aside the chapter on Japan for now, until I have another opportunity to travel to the same places—or even to new ones—since I don’t feel I’ve fully covered this chapter. Just as with food, coffee and its variety in the Land of the Rising Sun are an inexhaustible source of flavors that anyone who loves coffee simply must try.