Speaking Spanish on the Yucatán Peninsula

The weeks leading up to our flight were filled with anxious comments from friends, relatives, and others due to the situation caused by the murder of the person mentioned above. As the days went by, things calmed down, and especially since we would be on the Yucatán Peninsula, things would clearly be better than at the epicenter of the events. We set off on a flight to Cancún, which was scheduled to arrive late at night in Mexico, so our first priority upon arrival was to take a taxi, get to our Airbnb to drop off our bags, and head out into the streets of Cancún to find something to eat.

And what better late-night snack could there be than tacos paired with authentic margaritas? Leaving our accommodation, we headed to the nearest main street, and after passing many bright and lively spots, we found Taquería Coapeñitos, a place known for its very hearty tacos and their namesake specialty. This taco takes its name from the Coapa neighborhood in southeastern Mexico City and combines slow-cooked bistec beef, chorizo pork sausage, and the fresh tomatoes and onions of pico de gallo along with avocado and topped with shredded chicharrón, that is, fried pork rinds. Along with this delicious dish, we also ordered a variety of most of the menu's selection of tacos, as well as two margaritas to quench our evening thirst. The menu also had the local sandwiches called tortas, a word that means cake in other varieties of Spanish which I find very cute.

Along with the tacos came a plate of various sauces ranging from mildly spicy to very spicy, and knowing what I know about what was to come, this wasn’t the spiciest thing we tried. That’s not to say that I’ll now look back on my spicy experiences as something I don’t want to repeat, nor will I tell you that you haven’t really experienced spicy food until you’ve been to Mexico. Taste is entirely subjective. What I don’t think is so subjective is how fresh the guacamole we ordered was, since avocados are native to Mexico. I’d say it’s a constant obsession of mine to try fruits and vegetables when I’m away from home, to spot the small or big differences compared to what I find in my neighborhood. But even more so, I’m most excited by the fruits and vegetables I can’t find at home.

That was our first night in Mexico, a complete success even though it didn’t last long; just like our stay in Cancún. Our next destination was Tulum, and we got there by bus on a trip that took a little over two and a half hours. I admit that at first I was hesitant about this mode of transportation, since I’ve been a passenger on many subpar buses in the past, but intercity buses in Mexico are a very comfortable and economical transportation option. When we arrived at the Tulum bus station, we met Vladimir, a taxi driver who was waiting at the taxi stand for customers. Vladimir took us to our Airbnb, but as we were chatting, he gave me his phone number so I could call him again if we needed a ride somewhere. From my very first walk around Tulum, I felt like I was in a very touristy area, since the familiar barkers quickly made their appearance, as did spots that seemed out of place and out of time, such as Irish pubs and bars blasting American pop music.

As soon as I opened my mouth and spoke Spanish, everything changed. Many people were surprised, mostly in a positive way, while others seemed to feel a sense of relief. Tulum is a very popular tourist destination, and as we overheard from the surrounding tables, most visitors don’t speak Spanish. Not that they’re supposed to, but living in a tourist area, I suppose it can get tiring to interact with people who don’t speak your language.

One of the next days, we had planned to go to one of the clubs in Tulum that wasn’t on the beach but had a cenote in the center, tsʼonoʼot in the Yucatec Maya language—that is, a site with accessible underground waters. I sent Vladimir a message on WhatsApp a few hours before we needed to leave, and he replied immediately to take us to the club. In the taxi, I asked him if El Mencho’s murder had had any impact on the area, and he replied with a laugh that nothing ever happens in Tulum. That was the impression the area gave me as well, though that doesn’t mean I can fully understand how the locals experience it.

Getting back to the food in Tulum, I spent those days trying to discover three things: who makes the best eggs, the best tacos, and the best margaritas in town. Many places, I suppose due to the area’s tourism, have adopted styles reminiscent of brunch spots, but for me, the scrambled eggs with various herbs, peppers, and , pan-fried beans, was my favorite breakfast in Tulum. Although I prefer olive oil to butter, I have to admit that back then, the butter served on top of the bread was just what the doctor ordered. I’d like to give a special mention to , tortilla chips dipped in green or red tomato sauce with eggs on top, a delicacy I enjoyed several times while I was there and should probably try making at home. The problem is that I don’t know how to make homemade tortillas.

One key difference from other places around the world that serve tacos is that, in Mexico—and quite logically— the small tortilla that wraps around the filling is always fresh, and that greatly enhances the quality. I thoroughly enjoyed all kinds of tacos, with meat, fish, or even vegetables, but I also tried all kinds of margaritas, which in Mexico aren’t always made with the classic trio of tequila, orange liqueur, and lime. Many different fruits are used in this beloved cocktail, and often there isn’t even orange liqueur in the recipe. After a few days in Mexico, I officially switched to mezcal because mezcal stole my heart.

Before we said goodbye to Tulum, I absolutely wanted to try one of the sweets you can find at the food carts in the alleys between our Airbnb and Tulum’s main street. Somewhere along the way, we came across Gary (?), who ran a food cart named after the character from “SpongeBob SquarePants” and was making marquesitas. These are very thin crepes made right on his portable stove and filled with various fillings, fruits, and even cheese. Locals also call it queso de bola because of its ball-like shape.

Before we left for Holbox, I took every opportunity to ask the waiters and shop owners about their favorite tequilas and which ones I absolutely had to bring home with me on my way back. The tequila mentioned most often was Herradura, likely because of its balance of price and quality. And I can confirm: Herradura Silver is a white tequila that’s enjoyable both neat with a splash of lime and in cocktails. To get to Isla Holbox, you first have to go to Chiquilá and from there take a small boat to cross over to Holbox. The island has seen some tourism development, which is evident not only in the style of the shops but also in the variety of foods on offer; we even found frozen yogurt.

Nevertheless, Holbox still has nothing but dirt roads everywhere, which was the first thing we saw as soon as we arrived. A buggy turned taxi took us to our hotel, which made the experience even funnier, and after we settled in, we headed out to the island’s seemingly endless—figuratively speaking—beach. The next few days passed peacefully, with plenty of food and even more beers, margaritas, and mezcal.

I was impressed by the fact that we found beach bars serving food that wasn’t limited to fried options—a very common phenomenon, at least in Europe. One of these places was the chiringuito at the Zomay Hotel. That’s what beach bars are called in Spanish-speaking countries. We spent many days and endless hours there, gazing out at the sea and enjoying margaritas and mescalitas with various fruits. One afternoon, we sat down for lunch and ordered two plates of arrachera, which means hanger steak, guacamole with pico de gallo and arrachera chicharrón, as well as the arrachera steak with delicious roasted vegetables and a herb sauce. We also tried the beet carpaccio with goat cheese, a very familiar dish, and went all in with beers. I may be writing about this particular chiringuito, but there were other good options on the island as well.

Holbox also had great coffee; many of the places serving it use large, professional machines, but it was also where I found the best tacos and the tastiest mezcal on this trip. This is a story that involves a major power outage and live music, but I’ll probably have to save that for a separate post. When it was finally time to head back, we stopped by Chiquilá one last time, and this time we even had time to eat.

That’s where we found the most authentic spot of our entire trip to Mexico. Right next to the bus station—one of whose buses would take us to the airport—was a small shop run by the government agency Diconsa. This agency operates stores throughout the country with the goal of ensuring food for everyone, especially in remote areas, at low or subsidized prices. This small shop was a grocery store that sold various items and also served food; three women worked there. One of them greeted us to take our order, offering choices from the menu painted on the wall, including eggs and other typical Mexican dishes. There we ate the best eggs we had on the entire trip, and I also found a beautiful wooden cutting board they were selling there to take home as a souvenir.

This week and a bit in Mexico was a much-needed break from reality, and I think it was enough for the places we chose to visit. If I ever find myself back in these places, especially in Holbox, the first thing I’ll do is visit the same spots that won me over the first time. I hope that tourism development will keep these places as unspoiled as possible, and I will always remember the kindness and hard work of the people I met and honored me by speaking with me.